Of Taj, Mumtaz and Me…..

Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh is a small town of Historical importance, but unfortunately little known to the tourists. The original resting place of Mumtaz Mahal was here, on the banks of Tapti river. But all the forts and monuments were in rot and ruins, when I saw them in 1979.

My husband was working in a bank in Burhanpur. Everything I saw was amazing as I just got out in the open from a somewhat secluded life in a joint family in Kerala. We explored the town and surrounding areas on every possible chance. We even travelled by bullock cart to reach some forts. Many of the evenings we spent at a garden on the banks of Tapti River.

On either side of the river stood the Mahals where Mumtaz rested in times of illness and pregnancy. She even died in this Mahal. The cool breeze, the silent river and the forts in ruin would have stories of love, passion, greed and hatred to say.

The Mughals built a quilla along the banks of Tapti river. It was like a protective barrier to the entire town of Burhanpur. We could see the traces of a long tunnel which might have been an escape route from the fort.

Ahu Khana is situated in front of Royal fort in Zainabad. It was just across the river .The place was Royal leisure pavilions during the Mughal time. Body of Mumtaz Mahal was buried at this place for six months.

The inscription at the Ahu Khana — or royal pavilion —says “Constructed during the reign of Shahjahan, Mumtaz Begum was buried here before her remains were transported to Agra”.

How many of us know this fact? On 7th June 1631, Shah Jahan lost his beloved & favourite wife Mumtaz Mahall at Burhanpur, and her body was buried at first in the Garden of Zainabad, across the river Tapti. This is History.

The local people in their struggle to make a living had no interest or means to protect the historical monuments.

In 1981, we left the place but I still remember the evenings I spent imagining as much that I became a part of the life of Mumtaz. I think I felt her presence in the ruins, in the gardens, and the river Tapti whispered the story of love and passion it witnessed, in my ears.

The scenes from the old Hindi film “Taj Mahal” went through my mind and I made friends with Mumtaz in that very garden where she spent many days of her life…..

The Taj Mahal I visited…..

It was in 1979 that we visited Aurangabad in Maharashtra. We were still living in Burhanpur, Madhya Pradesh. It was a holiday trip to Aurangabad.

The tourist guide took us along the historical places. The most amazing sight I had was a Taj Mahal in Aurangabad. I had very little knowledge of History still I knew about the Taj Mahal in Agra. The guide was talking in Hindi and I could only understand that the next place of our visit was “Bibi ka Maqbara". While standing in front of the architectural beauty, we were stunned to see a replica of the Taj Mahal . It was a thrilling experience.

The Bibi ka Maqbara is a Mausoleum constructed by Azam Shah in memory of his mother Dilras Banu Begum. This was built between 1651 and 1661 AD.

This beautiful Mausoleum is constructed in white marble. Though inspired by the “Taj Mahal of Agra”, there is lapse in architectural proportions, which resulted in a poor copy. Hence it is known as the “Taj of Deccan.” Still the Mausoleum attracts the eyes along with the natural beauty of the mountain ranges behind and the garden set up around.

The mausoleum is entered through a main entrance gate on its south, which has excellent foliage designs on brass plate on wood covering from the exterior. After passing through the entrance a small tank is provided and a low profile screen wall leads to the main structure. The screened pathway has a series of fountains at its centre, which adds to further the serene atmosphere.

The mausoleum is built on a high square platform with four minarets at its corners, which is approached by a flight of steps from the three sides. A mosque is found to the west of the main structure, which was a later addition caused, by Nizam of Hyderabad resulting closure of the entrance. The mausoleum is encased with marble up to the dado level. Above the dado level, it is constructed of basaltic trap up to the base of dome; the latter is again built of marble. A fine plaster covers the basaltic trap and given a fine polished finish and adorned with fine stucco decorations. The mortal remain of Rabia-ul-Daurani is placed below the ground level surrounded by an octagonal marble screen with exquisite designs, which can be approached by a descending flight of steps. The roof of this chamber that corresponds to the ground level of the mausoleum is pierced by an octagonal opening and given a low barricaded marble screen. Thus the tomb can also be viewed from the ground level also through this octagonal opening. The mausoleum is crowned by a dome pierced with trellis works and accompanying panels decorated with flower designs.

The smaller mosque, a later addition, stands to the west of the mausoleum. The bays are pierced through with five cusped arches and a minaret could be noticed at each corner.

While I collected the details of this Taj, I got the feeling of walking through Bibi ka Maqbara once again. The memories are still fresh.

But my wish to see the Taj Mahal of Agra is still a dream, unfulfilled…….