Of Taj, Mumtaz and Me…..

Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh is a small town of Historical importance, but unfortunately little known to the tourists. The original resting place of Mumtaz Mahal was here, on the banks of Tapti river. But all the forts and monuments were in rot and ruins, when I saw them in 1979.

My husband was working in a bank in Burhanpur. Everything I saw was amazing as I just got out in the open from a somewhat secluded life in a joint family in Kerala. We explored the town and surrounding areas on every possible chance. We even travelled by bullock cart to reach some forts. Many of the evenings we spent at a garden on the banks of Tapti River.

On either side of the river stood the Mahals where Mumtaz rested in times of illness and pregnancy. She even died in this Mahal. The cool breeze, the silent river and the forts in ruin would have stories of love, passion, greed and hatred to say.

The Mughals built a quilla along the banks of Tapti river. It was like a protective barrier to the entire town of Burhanpur. We could see the traces of a long tunnel which might have been an escape route from the fort.

Ahu Khana is situated in front of Royal fort in Zainabad. It was just across the river .The place was Royal leisure pavilions during the Mughal time. Body of Mumtaz Mahal was buried at this place for six months.

The inscription at the Ahu Khana — or royal pavilion —says “Constructed during the reign of Shahjahan, Mumtaz Begum was buried here before her remains were transported to Agra”.

How many of us know this fact? On 7th June 1631, Shah Jahan lost his beloved & favourite wife Mumtaz Mahall at Burhanpur, and her body was buried at first in the Garden of Zainabad, across the river Tapti. This is History.

The local people in their struggle to make a living had no interest or means to protect the historical monuments.

In 1981, we left the place but I still remember the evenings I spent imagining as much that I became a part of the life of Mumtaz. I think I felt her presence in the ruins, in the gardens, and the river Tapti whispered the story of love and passion it witnessed, in my ears.

The scenes from the old Hindi film “Taj Mahal” went through my mind and I made friends with Mumtaz in that very garden where she spent many days of her life…..